The Restaurant Trend of the Fall Is Pure Chaos

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A new crop of restaurants is embracing a next-level version of fusion. It's aggressive. It's slightly lawless. It's undeniably delicious

wrote that these new culinary mashups should be considered “a New New American Cuisine, an organic outgrowth of demographic shifts, democratic kitchens and the never-ending pursuit of flavor,” and it’s true they often seem to grow from a more honest, less cynical place than the fusion dishes of the ’90s. Still, it felt like there were rules that came with this “return.

The menu stayed strange, with things like crunchwrap supreme lasagna and veal manti picatta now regularly featured. “It’s just really weird shit,” he says., specifically brings up Wolfgang Puck and California Pizza Kitchen when talking about his menus. “These things that we laugh about now were the forefront of breaking the boundaries of what Italian and French rules were,” he says. “For me, it’s an excuse to be able to do that.

 

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It's a logical cultural progression. Entirely predictable. Traditionalists who stridently defend authentic recipes are just defending the most recent generation of innovators in their family (or cultural) history.

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