. Mona steamed it, doused it, lit it ablaze, and served slices of brown cake thickly spread with brandy butter. It was life-changing, and the most festive thing I’ve ever eaten—sweet, with a sweetness that seemed mostly to come from fruit. Rich, with a light puddingy texture that brought to mind recent years of various grain porridges—from savory oatmeal to the barley one at Grand Central’s Great Northern Food Hall. The citrus was lightly sour and refreshing.
But why, then, does the pudding taste so of the moment? Why is it so absent the heavy anachronism I noted in the last one I’d tasted before Talbott & Arding’s? It may be the quality of the ingredients. Mona Talbott explains: “We use organic fruit, organic almonds from California, ground in-house. We candy all the candied grapefruit peel ourselves. The breadcrumbs are all from the heels of our baguette.
Talbott & Arding’s is steamed, then cooled, and then stored to cure for a few months. I got two this year . It must be steamed over hot water for an hour, then it can be removed and lit on fire so it can, in Kate Arding’s words “do its northern lights thing.” Then it’s ready to be sliced and served. Some people have it with cream. Some people have it with custard. “But in the Arding household we ate it with brandy butter,” says Kate. She had a grandmother who never cooked.
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