The Pop-Ups Celebrating Blackness in Food

Omar Tate:

There’s a strong consideration of myself and the world around me. In this specific case, I was born a year after the MOVE bombing. [But I saw] a documentary [about it] called, which was the command made by the police commissioner on the ground [after the bombing]. When other officers were saying, “This fire is burning out of control,” they said, “Let the fire burn.” I latched on to that statement. There was another statement that was said from the bullhorn: “MOVE, this is America.

I usually point to soul food as that Northern part. Soul food doesn’t only exist in the North, but it is the food of the party, to me, the ones who can’t reach back home. That’s the experience that I think people are looking for from soul food: the grounding that it gives you. Soul food is delicious and amazing, but it doesn’t have the nuance and all of the characteristics that make up the multiple, varied experiences one can have with regional Southern cuisine.

I like to look at it like how rappers make mixtapes. They’re not working with a label, they’re not paying into an institution. It is literally their words over beats, and they distribute it in the way that they want, which, again, kind of speaks to freedom. But I never wanted this to only be a pop-up.

Jaya Saxena: Were you drawn to pop-ups as a format because they led to more creative freedom, or was there something about the traditional restaurant world that was off-putting or inaccessible to you?When I moved to Portland, I had just finished an artist residency in Berlin focusing on food, art, and ecology. What I really wanted to do was focus on merging food and art, and playing with the entire format of a sit-down dinner.

Black food is something that is still being defined, and will probably be defined and redefined forever.One of my white friends said that she needed to tread lightly in that space. We’re not interested in equating Black experiences to white experiences. We’re not interested in cosplaying what it is like to be a Black person. That’s not the goal at all.

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