Chef Angela Dimayuga works the line in Mission Chinese Food’s first Manhattan location. Photo: Clay Williams This article was featured in One Great Story, New York’s reading recommendation newsletter. Sign up here to get it nightly.
Over the past two years, in an industry-wide reckoning, a host of prominent restaurants have been exposed for their toxic work environments. But Mission Chinese Food was supposed to be different. Almost from the moment its first New York City location opened in 2012, its chef and owner Danny Bowien had publicly disavowed the macho bro culture of professional kitchens.
The restaurant looked and felt like it had been thrown together in about a week. A paper dragon flew above the ramshackle dining room. The bar appeared to have been built with plywood. A keg of beer regularly sat near the front door. One bathroom was dedicated, for no apparent reason, to the show Twin Peaks. And the food coming out of the kitchen, Wells also wrote, “might taste very different from one night to the next.
Critics agreed that the new restaurant felt like a more professional operation. In his follow-up review, written in 2015, Wells opined that Mission Chinese Food had become, “against the odds and to almost everybody’s benefit, a nearly normal restaurant.” In New York, Adam Platt wrote that Bowien’s “real genius is for creating a grand sense of occasion, and at this larger, more sophisticated Mission outlet, you get the impression that he finally has a proper New York stage to call his own.
Keith remembers the way Dimayuga introduced Le to the staff. “This is my guy,” she told them, “my hand-chosen dream collaborator.” The two had worked together at the Brooklyn restaurant Vinegar Hill House, and the rumor was that they’d grown up together in San Jose. Dimayuga says they didn’t know each other as children, but she presented Le as a model of professionalism.
In addition to hurling racist insults at the staff, Le subjected employees to grueling schedules. According to Cuero, who started as a porter, the restaurant’s dishwashers were “worked like dogs.” It was not uncommon for Cuero and other porters to work until 4 a.m. before coming back to open at 8 a.m. — a turnaround that’s known in the industry as a “clopen.”
chrisecrowley So who suffered consequences for the abuse of the staff/cooks? From this article, it seems like no one. The location that’s still open, needs to be boycotted. This is shameful.
chrisecrowley Yes please, let’s kick NYC restaurants while they’re down as much as possible
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