The Most Outstanding Costumes of This Year’s Awards Season

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From a romantic Victorian ensemble to a pair of well-worn 1930s-era shoes

The Elton John biopic opens with an eye-catching fantasy sequence in which Taron Egerton, as the singer- songwriter, saunters into a bright, white rehab facility. Isolated by fame at the height of his career, John has been soothing himself with drugs, spending sprees, and epic backstage tantrums. Though the audience does not yet know this backstory, designer Julian Day instantly telegraphs the fury and indulgence with an orange and fireball-red devil’s costume.

At the end of the film’s production process, Day was touched to receive a congratulatory letter from John himself, who had given the filmmakers carte blanche creatively. “The first person I had to please was Elton,” Day said of his own personal goal withLeft, courtesy of Fox Searchlight Pictures/© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation; right, by Kimberley French/© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

The most important apparel of the film is a pair of ruby-and-white one-strap shoes—a style worn by many musical actresses in the 1930s and ’40s— that becomes Rosie’s trademark in several key scenes. “We also wanted to show that these shoes are important because they came from happier days,” Rubeo said. “And [they] were a reminder that there was going to be a better tomorrow.

One actual ensemble Tate wore that Phillips and Tarantino were keen to re-create: a full-length python coat by Ossie Clark that the actor wore to the London premiere ofUnable to find the exact piece, Phillips replicated the design herself, using a python- printed material rather than real snakeskin. In the film, Tate wears the coatdress to a party at the Playboy mansion, to which she and Polanski drive in an open-air convertible.

 

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