The Most Important Collections of the 2010s

for Céline. “I just thought I’d clean it up. Make it strong and powerful,” she said. “A kind of contemporary minimalism.” I described it in my review as her mission to make “classy utilitarianism sexy,” and something of the sort was definitely recognized by those of us who’d gathered to see Philo’s leap to a new house. She’d taken four years out after her wildly successful run at Chloé, so a lot of anticipation was riding on the show.

It was a very big deal—emotionally, practically, and philosophically—and it continued to be until Philo closed her Céline chapter and walked away again in 2017. Rarely has a decade in fashion ever got off to such a definite, viscerally understandable start. Also, a clear-headed, sensible, female-directed one. After all, in 2008 male bankers had crashed the global economy. It was a really precarious time—for people who were losing their jobs, homes, and savings, or living in fear of it.

As understated as it might look now, the impact of Philo’s Céline was an awakening for a system that had slumped into a lazy cycle of girly, hyper-sexy, red carpet–serving fashion. The 2000s had been the years of carefree credit-boom-fueled nonstop partying. A lot of what Philo herself designed at Chloé—breezy frilled dresses, cute shorts, sky-high clogs, retro jeans, and It bags like the Paddington—had encapsulated that time.

Power like that has the effect of changing the atmosphere in fashion. Céline did: Against the economic odds, under Philo it became a cult brand that women were prepared to invest in. I use that word deliberately, because had you wisely bought any single thing from that collection, you’d probably still be wearing it now.—Sarah Mower“The future is two-dimensional,” was all that Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Garçons’s militantly taciturn designer, offered after her.

It was an exuberant celebration that Kawakubo, perhaps the least exuberant designer on the planet, hosted—a party with a plywood catwalk and no music. If you were in the audience that day, you knew that you were witnessing something incredible.

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This has reminded me that I need to bring in my clothes from the hanging line

😍

You are so in vogue tonight!

For me the Dior s/s 2012 show was amazing and Gucci s/s 2012 also.Generally the s/s 2012 collections were exceptional.I still remember them with nostalgia.

You PEOPLE don't play. Still together. 💘

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the taste jumped out... the window

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