The Model-Actor-Artist-Cook Creating a New Queer Food Project

Photo: Michael Bailey-Gates Bobbi Salvör Menuez is standing on a table at Lee’s, an event space in Chinatown, in toe socks and a Fear Factor T-shirt, carefully sprinkling pigeon feathers around the place settings. “They’re from a friend’s rooftop coop in Bushwick,” they say, nudging a feather toward the centerpiece, a carefully considered mess of dirt, daisies, and metal containers, with a foot.

Guests at Spiral Theory Test Kitchen and the MSG Club’s dinner on November 4. Photo: Bre Johnson. Guests at Spiral Theory Test Kitchen and the MSG Club’s dinner on November 4. Photo: Bre Johnson. Back in the kitchen, Menuez, Okoyomon, and the collective’s third founder, Quori Theodor, cook without aprons. “Why is it so stunning?” Menuez says, walking over to admire a pig’s heart that has been cured with sourdough. “I am really impressed with this heart.” I ask where it was procured.

Photo: Bre Johnson Over the past couple of years, a crop of similar collectives has emerged: JaynesBeard, an invite-only supper club for lesbian and queer women; BLK Palate, a group that cooks dinners to honor the black queer community; and, upstate, the queer-community-focused restaurant Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, which serves tropical comfort food in a space so glittery it’s often described as an art installation.

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