The luxury safari camp trying to move on from its colonial past

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Cottar's 1920s Camp is popular with guests yearning to recreate 'Out of Africa' — but without the malaria, lion attacks and airplane crashes.

Cottar's 1920s Camp is popular with guests yearning to recreate"Out of Africa" — but without the malaria, lion attacks and airplane crashes.

People are also reading… Perhaps surprisingly, even as his business continues to market its upscale brand of nostalgia, Cottar thinks they have a point. Beasts and vintage sofasA deep-rooted familiarity with colonial Kenya is woven into the way the lodge runs. There are ornate writing desks and four-poster beds in each bedroom, waiters carry silver trays of gins and tonic out to the pool before lunch, and long mahogany tables are laid for dinner, when guests are encouraged to dress up and mingle.

It felt like a scene from an Agatha Christie novel, had she gone through a surrealist phase. The animal was lying in a pool of its own blood while surrounded by first-edition books and leather armchairs. "All this 1920s decor is tricky though because there is still such an appetite for it, and the guys who work here don't mind — it's just theater for them — but urbanite Kenyans are vehemently anti anything colonial-looking, and I get it."

Wildlife is dying because fences — simple structures made of wood and wire — now cover huge swathes of the Masai Mara. They impede all migrations and are the reason why, even with poaching figures dropping each year, lion and elephant populations are in freefall. His desire to work towards creating a fairer Kenya is also clear within the camp. The entire team is Kenyan, from the camp manager to the highly acclaimed chef. The guides, meanwhile, are all local Masais, some of whom now own the land they work on.

 

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