That’s a sentiment echoed by many of the designers creating these one-of-a-kind, hugely labor-intensive looks. Many of them, points out Feben Vemmenby—another 2020 Saint Martins grad, who goes by Feben—started their labels while on lockdown, when the global pace of life slowed enough for them to think long and hard about the perils of mass consumption.
To hear many of these designers tell it, the pandemic made them think not only more sustainably, but also more fantastically. Trapped alone in their apartments, they found it hard not to dream about the big fancy social events that had been canceled.
The importance of one’s digital presentation, of course, increased exponentially during the pandemic. “There was a huge shift from the physical world to the virtual world,” points out Terrence Zhou, a New York–based native of Wuhan, China, who graduated from Parsons last year. As a designer of deeply trippy, hugely impractical statement wear, he says that change of focus was actually quite liberating.
But, of course, not every 20-something designer is ready to trade in their pincushion for a mouse pad. “Digital garments are great for a picture, but you lose something in that,” Reed says. “I think it’s so beautiful to see my friends in stuff that they’ve made, being able to touch it and admire the handiwork and know that it took 80 hours to make. That blood, sweat, and tears will never be erased.
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