This story originally appeared in i-D’s The Darker Issue, no. 365, Winter 2021. Order your copy Leilah Weinraub is an artist, filmmaker, and former CEO of the groundbreaking NYC fashion label Hood By Air. Leilah’s work contends with questions of labour, money, performance, cultural capital and agency while centering women’s lives in imagining what a future of liberation could look like.I’m kind of in a bad mood today.
It’s total exploitation. I’m done with it. It’s everywhere. I guess I’m open to feeling it unfiltered right now, as part of the development of my projects. I’m not in a place of deflecting or minimising it. I’m in a place of being like: this is a state of insanity and dangerousness. I’m taking that rage seriously.
We live in a world where commerce and exploitation is definitively our means of collaboration. I'm not talking about exploitation just in the social or the sexual sense. I'm talking about it in terms of goods and resources and products. Like in IP terms, ‘I have the right to exploit this IP in these territories for this amount of time and space’, you know? That's a collaborative document that outlines our terms of engagement.
Without carrying too much, I think HBA successfully ended fashion in a way. The reality of fashion is that it's a European luxury object and concept, it's about imperialism and colonialism. The way fashion works is pretty mappable; it’s not a mystery or a secret. You take the ideas and the energy and the aesthetic of whoever it is you’re colonising, and you sexualise it, embody it, and eat it.
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