The Food Lab's Definitive Guide to Buying and Cooking Leg of Lamb

Kenji is the former culinary director for Serious Eats and a current culinary consultant for the site. He is also a New York Times food columnist and the author of The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science.It always baffles me when I hear statistics about lamb consumption in the US. Compared to chicken, beef, and pork sales, lamb consumption is a drop in the bucket—two full orders of magnitude lower than chicken consumption.

Even more dire is the fact that lamb is what economists call an "inferior product," which means that its demand is inversely proportional to average consumer income. When people have money to spend, they'd rather spend it on beef and chicken breasts. A 2001 study from Kennesaw State University in Georgia found that for every 1% increase in consumer income, there was a corresponding 0.54% decrease in lamb consumption.

Q: I've read that grass-fed meat is always better—better tasting, better for the animal—is there any truth in this? But here's the thing: Most of the compounds that give lamb—or any meat—its distinct flavor tends to be concentrated in its fat. In fact, if you grind lamb fat into a lean beef hamburger or cook a lean beef steak in rendered lamb fat, you'd swear that you were eating lamb. The lesson? Minimize the fat and you minimize the gaminess.

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