The City’s Newest Cocktail Bar Is Hiding in the Back of a Taiwanese Snack Shop

Gulp and 929 started as a three-way partnership. William Guo is a co-owner of Gulp along with Haoran Chen, a former designer of Industry City, who’s running 929. Taiwan native Jeff Liu, who owns a construction company as well as two Taiwanese sweet shops — OJBK bubble tea in Clinton Hill and the Long Island City outpost of Meet Fresh, a global grass jelly dessert franchise — spearheaded the project.

Expect drinks with ingredients like winter melon tea, savory soy milk, condensed milk foam, and nin jiom, an herbal syrup “that all Chinese parents give their kids for a cough.” Most cocktails are infused, such as vodka steeped with whole burdock; kaoliang with jin xuan oolong tea leaves; or gin with chrysanthemum flowers.

One drink called the Most Familiar Stranger, named after a Mandopop song by Elva Hsiao, is a sweet and savory concoction inspired by three-cup chicken. The base of the ten-ingredient cocktail includes basil-infused gin and pineapple juice, and it’s topped with a foam of soy milk, soy sauce, and maple syrup.Gulp supplies all the food to 929, and offers only takeout. As Liu waits for the gas to be turned on, he’s running a limited menu of Taiwanese bar fare.

Gulp will eventually offer a Taiwanese breakfast menu that includes fan tuan , dan bing , and lu rou fan ; the restaurant was originally conceived as a breakfast spot. For a limited dinner menu, the restaurant will serve beef noodle soup. Both 929 and Gulp are open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday from 5 p.m. to 12 a.m, and Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.

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