The Black Designers Shaking Up the Fine-Jewelry World

, over 2020. And young consumers—particularly young women—are leading the way. Still, it’s never been easy for people without family connections to start making and selling fine jewelry, particularly working-class Black people.

“When I started to get into fine jewelry, I never saw any Black fine jewelers,” she recalls. Fulton took metalwork and stone-setting classes at a fine-arts center in Seattle after moving to the city in 2010. She started out making jewelry in her garage, and her business has grown steadily, becoming a go-to for refined diamond-set pieces that land on the quiet side of luxury.

Bernard James of the eponymous jewelry line, Jameel Mohammed of Khiry, and Khadijah Fulton of White/SpaceDespite their varied origin stories, Mohammed, James, and Fulton all say that 2020 was a pivotal point for their brands. In the midst of a racial reckoning, retailers anxious to bolster diversity within their rosters began recruiting more Black founders. “Everything kind of exploded in 2020.

Net-a-Porter chose Khiry to include in its Vanguard program, an initiative launched in 2018 to help emerging designers set up their businesses for the long term. According to Mohammed, Mateo, a fellow Black jewelry designer, put Khiry onto Net-a-Porter’s radar for inclusion into the program. The extra support allowed Mohammed to delve into fine jewelry in a way he hadn’t before. “Before 2020, having a fine-jewelry collection was not a feasible possibility.

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