Peruse your local cookware store or search options online, and you'll notice a staggering range of prices and specs. There are stainless-steel skillets going for as low as $30 and as high as $300.
Is it how responsive the pan is, such that any increase or decrease in the heat source can be felt rapidly in the cooking activity in the pan itself? Once again, it's important...to a point. You certainly want a stainless-steel skillet that's responsive enough that you can sauté in it with some agility—after all, that's what sautéing is all about. But you also want it to retain heat well enough that it can effectively sear a piece of meat.
Because most companies make stainless-steel skillets in a range of sizes, I opted to test 12-inch skillets or the closest possible size offered by any company that didn't have a 12-inch option. I would just as heartily recommend a 10-inch skillet for most homes, but I figured if there were any conduction or balance issues, they would be more obvious on a larger pan, which would make it easier for me to rank them .
By and large, the differences seemed small. Almost all of the skillets brought water to a boil within a 30-second window of each other, except for one outlier, the Breville, which took a full minute longer than the next-slowest pan. Cool-down times were also mostly bunched up within a minute or so of each other, once again except for the Breville.
To test this, I whipped up a big batch of basic crêpe batter, then made a crêpe in each skillet. Now, I wouldn't normally cook a sticking-prone food like crêpes in a stainless-steel skillet; I'd sooner reach for a well-seasoned carbon steel or nonstick pan for that. But to create a map of heating evenness, the crépe worked. In some cases, the crêpes did stick and tear slightly when I flipped them, but I was able to get a useable heat map from each one.
*Alternatively, one who isn't me might say I'm merely somewhat above-average in strength and height, but what would that person know?
I have used an AllClad 10in D3 skillet very happily for almost 30 yrs, and a 12in for the past 10.
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