The Best Peach Cobbler Is Also a Simple Peach Cobbler

. You start by melting an entire stick of butter in a baking dish. Then you pour the batter on top of that, which mostly pushes the butter to the sides. The fruit goes on next, much of it sinking into the batter, and it bakes until golden on top. There are four cups of sliced peaches and two full cups of sugar in both recipes. By weight, there's nearly as much sugar as peach.The result looks good, but tastes horrid. It is entirely too sweet. Plus, it is offensively buttery .

Even though I want my cobbler to taste like ripe summer peaches, peaches can't be the only filling ingredient. What do we need? First, of course, is sugar—not a ton , but enough to help form the syrupy sauce and punch the dish up to dessert status. I found that brown sugar didn't make enough of a flavor difference to warrant calling for it, while lemon juice was a must to prevent the dessert from becoming cloying. In my small test batches, which I cooked in ramekins, I preferred the ones without cornstarch, but I chose to reserve judgment on this until I'd scaled up to a full, baking-dish-size batch and zeroed in on my ratio of biscuit to fruit.

Once I get my peaches all whipped up, I scrape them into an eight-inch-square, two-quart baking dish and pop them in a 400°F oven for 10 minutes to get them started. I highly recommend setting the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet, since cobblers love to overflow during baking.While the peaches are in the oven for those 10 short minutes, it's time to make the biscuit.

Either way, I like to leave a small opening right in the center to help heat penetrate and prevent the biscuit in the middle from underbaking. I pop the cobbler back in the oven and let it bake until the biscuit is browned and fully cooked.

My one quibble is that I prefer my cobblers to look like cobble stone streets. I wonder if the other style would still work with less sugar and less butter.

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