The best cup of coffee I've ever made

in Chinatown’s Far East Plaza complex. If you are dubious about pour-overs — their relative light texture, the admittedly fiddly and time-consuming process of making them — I will send you first to Benchakul. His peerless skills will likely convince you of their beauty.How one makes great coffee at home, particularly after encountering masters like Benchakul, remained a mystery. Alone in my apartment during the March 2020 shutdowns, it was time to learn.

After a few months, my geekiest coffee friend directed me to a next-level setup: a Hario V60 pour-over coffee maker , a Baratza Encore burr grinder and a scale. He connected me with Matthew Jung-Quillen, the chief business officer of Brooklyn-based Sey Coffee who lives in L.A. Jung-Quillen kindly gave me a tutorial on bean-to-water ratios and how to time a cup to about 3½ minutes. I’d watched instructive videos but absorbed the technique better learning from an actual person.

The tasting notes on the bag of Luna Bermudez read, “blueberry Pop-Tart, yellow peach, custard.” Hello, sold. I had more than a year’s worth of daily practice making pour-overs at home by then, and I could genuinely discern those flavors, especially the peach and custard. It was a wild, disarming, peak pleasure.

Like tea, pour-overs have a certain meditative quality to their preparation — a few minutes of paying attention at the start of the day, a bit of patience paying off, the rewards of repetition reaped. The thing about buying beans from shops like Dayglow is that the inventory never stays the same. I buy something, I brew it, I love it, it’s gone and that’s OK. Something else, something fresh is always on the way.

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