As a Cincinnati native, I tend to get one of two reactions when I mention my origins: a dig about the Queen City’s luckless sports teams, or a confused question, perhaps tinged with disgust, about “that weird chili you put on spaghetti.” I’ll generally agree with the first point. But a jab at Cincinnati chili flares up red-blooded hometown pride. To me, this misunderstood meat sauce is a cultural cornerstone, a testament to immigrant ingenuity, and the crowning jewel of Midwest cuisine.
A massive mural on one side of the dining room taunts diners with a tower of 11 third-of-a-pound-pound patties and two pounds of fries. But owner and chef Jordan Stephenson has put at least as much thought into his chili. When he took over the restaurant in the Latonia neighborhood of Covington, Kentucky, in 2015, it didn’t come with a chili recipe.
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