“The Bear” Is Overstuffed and Undercooked

Going against David’s teachings, the maximalist third season only ever adds, resulting in a bafflingly bad batch of episodes that gravely misjudge the series’ appeal. Until now, “ The Bear ” maintained a tricky balance between sweat-soaked stress and cutesy wish fulfillment. For most of those first two seasons, the less believable elements were easy to forgive.

Even the season’s single best installment—the sixth, directed by Edebiri, about how Tina first came to work at the Bear, under Michael—hardly feels essential. At its worst, the earnestness curdles into self-congratulatory smarm. A subplot about the anxieties of Carmy’s pregnant sister, Natalie , is meant to parallel his own hopes for breaking out of an abusive cycle; Natalie fears that she’ll pass on the neuroses she developed while dealing with their unbalanced mother, Donna .

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