The Bay Area night market dishing out Hong Kong-style street food

Hong Kong’s famous night markets come to life in an unlikely place nearly 7,000 miles away: South San Francisco, “the industrial city.”, a large, open space has a Hong Kong bus stop painted inside the entrance. At night, neon signs light up, replicating Hong Kong's famous cityscape. Patrons sit at little blue, red and green plastic stools surrounding round folding tables, just as they would in Hong Kong.

Some Shanghai Dumplings are steamed at The Night Market in South San Francisco, California on November 10, 2022.Shrimp dim sum at The Night Market in South San Francisco, California on November 10, 2022.Although I’m tempted by everything I find at the Night Market on a recent Thursday afternoon, especially as I spent many a drunken night myself at such stalls in Hong Kong, I’m here on a mission:All of the dumplings at the Night Market were once made in-house.

At the Night Market, Lee’s head chef, who prefers to go by Chef Fung, has more than 40 years of restaurant experience. He can deftly make hundreds of wontons by hand in one session, and he does just that, folding ground pork and shrimp into a square wonton skin effortlessly. Wonton noodles are an iconic street food in Hong Kong, simple and straightforward. Chef Fung, however, treated the creation of each bowl as if it were meant for royalty, tenderly turning thin, fresh egg noodles boiling in chicken and beef bone broth with a pair of tongs every so often to get an even cook. He boiled the wontons simultaneously.

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