Style With Soul: How the World’s Most Iconic Black Women Singers Expressed Themselves Through Fashion

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From Ma Rainey and Billie Holiday to Aretha Franklin and Eartha Kitt, the wave of films and books about iconic Black women singers shows their sartorial response to the antiblackness and misogynoir they faced

puts angular Black womanhood front and centre with its chilling tale of state persecution of a singer who took a courageous stand against white supremacist terror. Her looks were also creatively sourced, costume designer Paolo Nieddu tells me, given the reality facing a Black performer on the road in the Jim Crow era.Nieddu sought to dress actor Andra Day in ways that conveyed Holiday’s glamour even as the persecution she faced for her heroin addiction took its toll.

As performance critic Madison Moore told me, “sometimes the best looks are improvised.”Style is a renewable resource for Black women, as Kitt acknowledges in an aphorism: “The only thing I can sell and still own is my talent.” In her daughter Kitt Shapiro’s memoir,, we get a picture of someone who drew a sharp distinction between her public appeal and her private life, especially as a mother.

 

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