Whisk sugar, cornstarch, and salt together in a 3-quart saucier. When no lumps of cornstarch remain, add exactly 14 ounces of the milk and whisk to combine. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly but not vigorously, until it begins to simmer. This will take about 6 minutes, if the process seems to be moving slowly, simply turn up the heat. When the mixture comes to a boil, set a timer and continue cooking and whisking for exactly 1 minute. This ensures the cornstarch is fully hydrated.
Immediately transfer mixture to a large bowl, then whisk in the remaining milk and cream. Bearing in mind that the gelato will taste substantially less sweet once frozen, season with an additional pinch of salt, if desired. Cover and refrigerate the gelato base until cold, thick, and no warmer than 40°F , about 3 hours .
In a microwave-safe bowl, melt the chocolate with a few 15-second bursts at normal power, pausing to stir well between each addition. Add the coconut oil, and continue stirring until fully melted. For fine chips that partially homogenize into the gelato, cool to about 90°F before use. For larger, chunkier pieces that remain slightly more distinct, cool to about 70°F instead.
Churn the gelato base in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions. Meanwhile, place a quart-sized container and flexible spatula in the freezer. When gelato looks fluffy and thick, add the cooled and melted chocolate, or the pre-made chocolate chips, and churn until well combined. Shut off the machine and, using the chilled spatula, scrape gelato into the chilled container.
Gelato is typically served at about 16°F , but most American freezers run at 0°F . For the most authentic presentation, soften gelato to 16°F in the refrigerator before serving. In a squat container, like a yogurt tub or a square storage container, this will take about 45 minutes. The timing will vary substantially depending on the size, shape, and material of the container , so check on the gelato frequently to ensure it does not melt.
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