Spaghetti alle Vongole in Bianco Recipe

Removing most of the cooked clams from their shells, then adding that meat back to the pasta at the end, makes the dish easier to eat.

Another argument could be that you can serve the pasta in a mound in the center of the plate, then arrange all the clamshells around it in a decorative fashion. This is true—in fact, I've seen it done—but I'd argue that such a presentation, while artful, denies you an essential joy of the dish, which is getting bites of clam meat with each forkful of pasta.

There are a few important things to know about the clams. First, I tested this recipe with the three types of clams I was able to find: cockles, Manila clams, and littlenecks. Manilas and cockles are smaller than littlenecks, but since we're removing most of the shells, that's not too much of a consideration here. Flavor-wise, they're pretty similar in the finished dish.

Back to the covered pan: We have our clams, wine, oil, garlic, and chili flakes all simmering away, the clams popping open one by one as they go to a better. I like to pluck them out and transfer them to a bowl as they open, to avoid overcooking the open clams while waiting for the others to catch up. A lot of people say you shouldn't eat clams that don't open. This is not true: A shut-tight clam is, if anything, the most vigorous and lively one in the pot.

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