I’ve begun baking more, lately, driven by the desire to create something tangible with my hands — pure alchemy, transforming raw ingredients into beautiful, delicious foodstuff. In the past year: apple cinnamon cakes, flaky strawberry shortcakes, a lemon cake so fragrant I can still smell it, the worst pound cake in the world, cardamom sugar cookies with freshly ground spices, dozens upon dozens ofbrown-butter chocolate chip cookies that I finally got to stop spreading so much in the oven.
This idyll is just that: an Arcadia. But this fantasy, like home cafes, are a rare, soothing pleasure in a world increasingly plagued by ugly realities. Much is bad, it’s true. So I’ll take the tiny comforts that I can, the snatches of warmth in the chill. These small but certain happinesses.
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