Six favorite summertime pies from L.A. bakeries

For many Americans, Thanksgiving and the winter holidays are high pie season, when pecan, sweet potato, pumpkin and apple showpieces rule the dessert table. I proselytize for pie in summertime, when juicy berries and stone fruits mingle with buttery crust, protracting their always-too-fleeting moment of peak ripeness. Icebox pie is also made for the warmest months.Stoner Party at Fat & Flour

Nicole Rucker had already built a reputation as the brightest star in the L.A. pie universe, but her talent is on exceptional display these days. She closed her short-lived Fairfax restaurant Fiona last summer and regrouped this year with a stand in Grand Central Market, where she makes every pie herself. The brilliance of Rucker’s ever-changing lineup stems in part from her commitment to gathering fruit from the region’s finest orchards.

In the tiny Eagle Rock shop she runs with Kelly Deco, baker Tracy Ann DeVore crafts a daunting number of flavors, including her signature triple berry Cabernet and combinations like caramel-apple-pecan and cherry-rhubarb. They sell pies by the slice in the store; whole pies are available via online preorders.

Valerie Gordon’s beautifully decorated cakes and elegant chocolate truffles had been on my radar, but it wasn’t until I saw an Instagram post from her Echo Park shop a month ago that I realized she was baking seasonal pies: strawberry rhubarb with lattice crust, sour cherry hand pies, mini caramel-apple gems. And wow, can she bake a textbook peach pie: softly sweet, vanilla-scented fruit cradled between a double crust that stays sturdy until it melts on the palate.

Lemon ice box 😋

Cheese pie!

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