Han Chong couldn’t stage his usual show at New York Fashion Week this season, nor could he plan one at home in London amid the city’s third lockdown. Instead, he put those resources towards a campaign featuring the first official “face” of Self-Portait: Phoebe Dynevor, she of-esque puffed sleeves, delicate lace, and crystal embellishments to a sparer, stripped-back aesthetic. Chong summed it up as “elegant simplicity.
It isn’t surprising to hear Chong is no longer feeling for ruffles, brights, and pomp after the year we’ve had. Chances are his customer isn’t, either. Who wants to be weighed down by a big sleeve or heavy layers when we’re finally, gleefully reemerging? Chong’s approach for fall 2021 involved sharper silhouettes with just a touch of the charm the brand is known for.
Chong was especially excited about his sweater developments. It’s a big moment for knitwear, but his ribbed cashmere dresses with crochet trim and crystal buttons will stand out. Cut in narrow, sometimes ultrashort silhouettes, they had that odd balance of sexy, cozy, and a little bit prudish all at once.
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