Savory Bengali Rice Porridge Is the Epitome of Comfort Food

When I was growing up, whenever I was sick, the first thing my mother would do was get a pot of rice, lentils, and water simmering away for porridge. It was considered to be potent stuff, with the power to cure everything from the flu to a short temper. I often suffered from the latter, so the hum of rice gurgling on a stovetop was the soundtrack of my life., but there are countless variations on rice porridge, with almost as many names—in China, and so forth.

After a few minutes, when the rice has barely swelled, I drain off the soaking liquid and gently crush the grains with a pestle or rolling pin. The goal is to have some finely crushed pieces—roughly as small as cornmeal—along with larger grains that are just cracked. When cooked, the fine grains dissolve into the water or stock, giving the porridge body, while the larger pieces remain distinct and add texture.

Meanwhile, I prepare the chutney by finely mincing Thai green chiles and cilantro. This verdant mosaic is mixed with sharp mustard oil, fresh lime juice, and salt into a loose,-style salsa. The fiery chutney perks up the muted flavors of the porridge, adding striking color and flavor to every bite.

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