San Antonio's Mexican bakeries offer multiple takes on conchas, from standard to upscale

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In the panaderias of today's San Antonio, these pastries are the most ubiquitous pan dulce — but they vary widely. SanAntonio SATX SanAntonioTX PanDulce Conchas Texas TexMex

The seashell has been an important symbol in Catholic iconography at least since the Middle Ages, when it became associated with Saint James the Apostle. The pilgrimage site of Santiago de Compostela in Northwestern Spain is the place most associated with both saint and symbol.

Unbeknownst to the venerable apostle and his followers, the shell had long been linked with another, ancient religious icon an ocean away. The Mexican god Quetzalcoatl, the plumed serpent, is also said to be connected to the shell, or concha, and the temple devoted to him at Teotihuacán near Mexico City features them prominently.

Sometimes called a mollete or simply pan de huevo , the shape is a simple domed circle of yeasted dough with sugar, eggs, water or milk and lard or butter. Frequently flavored with anise seed — and less often with stick cinnamon — the bread gets most of its sweetness and textural appeal from a ribbed coating of confectioner's sugar, flour, vegetable shortening and, most commonly, vanilla.

 

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TheJunibug Quetzlcoatl, of course.

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