San Antonio's Cuban-Mexican fusion restaurant Paladar excels at breaking the rules

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My ancient, but presumably still dependable, Velázquez Spanish-English dictionary defines the word paladar principally as palate, followed up by variations on taste and “longing desire.

principally as palate, followed up by variations on taste and “longing desire.” Published in 1967, it predates the Cuban iteration of the word that came into prominence in the 1990s after the collapse of the Soviet Union dealt a blow to the Castro regime.

Paladar’s crisply fried flautas de lechon are pretty much straight Mexican, though they apparently landed in the “fusion” column due to their filling of suckling pig in lieu of the more common chicken. I can’t say puerco was an improvement, but neither is it a mistake. The meat’s inherently mild flavor was helped along by toppings of mixed greens and queso fresco along with a side of sweet fried plantains.

The combination of black beans and rice in Cuba is frequently called Moros y Cristianos in reference to the less historically happy mix of Moors and Christians. Congri, on the other hand, is often made with red beans. In keeping with the theme of invention, Paladar’s version uses black beans and a little red bell pepper, which would be great on its own. But it’s also traditional to top the dish with fried chunks of pork, and that’s how it’s done here.

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