Rosetta chef Elena Reygadas expands the idea of Mexican food in her cookbook

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In one recipe, a small scoop of rosemary ice cream is nested in lemon thyme, sorrel and mint leaves. Over the top is a drizzle of rosemary syrup and olive oil.

. The plate — essentially a pile of greens — bears little resemblance to the gut-bombs of butter and chocolate that often finish out meals at fine dining restaurants. Nested in the lemon thyme, sorrel and mint leaves is a small scoop of rosemary ice cream, and over the top, a drizzle of rosemary syrup and good olive oil.

Located in a large Porfiriato mansion in the Mexico City neighborhood of Roma Norte, Rosetta’s rooms are small, as are the tables, so guests never have to raise their voices to be heard. The chairs are comfortable, and the soundtrack is the same one that Reygadas likes to listen to when she’s at home reading. In the evenings, the lighting is provided by antique lamps and candles.

It’s maybe not surprising that the creator of this decidedly literary cookbook wrote a dissertation on Virginia Woolf’s “The Waves” before deciding to pursue a career as a chef. Today, she owns five restaurants and has another in the works.Being one of the country’s most successful chefs hasn’t always been an easy match with motherhood, as she’s raised two daughters, working her most intense shifts during their dinner hour.

Reygadas finishes plating the dessert called fresh herbs, olive oil and rosemary ice cream, a recipe included in her book.

 

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