Melissa Perello likes to joke that she’d request a loaded baked potato as her final meal. At M. Georgina, Perello’s elegant 2-month-old restaurant in Row DTLA, she rescues the spud from the gloppy excesses of the chophouse playbook and turns it into something you’ll remember for its grace.
The debut of M. Georgina, named for Perello’s paternal grandmother, comes at a pivotal moment for the still-developing Row complex. Tartine Bianco and Alameda Supper Club, the restaurants in the flagship 40,000-square-foot Manufactory,The Manufactory’s intimidating size might have been a factor in its demise; at 4,500 square feet, Perello’s restaurant is hardly small, but the dining room’s L-shape creates a feeling of intimacy. Pale woods catch buttery light.
Perello’s cooking compels without resorting to pyrotechnics. The only thing on the menu that even approximates a gimmick is the grilled pita tinted black with squid ink. There is trout roe for pop and smoked oyster aioli for dipping.
latimes row dtla needs affordable housing and grocery stores not this smfh
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