A thousand stimuli charge your senses when you walk into the Mercado González in Costa Mesa. Dragon fruit, colored in lucid pinks and greens, piled in a wooden bin among dozens of other fruits and vegetables displayed with a gallerist's fastidious eye. The sunshine smell of masa, maybe mingling with the piercing scent of carnitas bubbling slowly in lard.
It doesn’t come with consommé; it needs little more than the onions, cilantro and lime wedges that come on the side. This puesto, without outwardly advertising it, serves several breakfast standards, including comfortingly saucy chilaquiles, eggs in salsa and oversized burritos filled with rice . This is also the corner of the market where you can sate your hunger for cheese enchiladas.
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