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Restaurant Review: A Pitch-Perfect Ode to Korean “Drivers’ Restaurants”

  • 📰 NewYorker
  • ⏱ Reading Time:
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  • 3 min. at publisher
  • 📊 Quality Score:
  • News: 16%
  • Publisher: 67%

Korean Food News

Lower East Side

Helen Rosner on Kisa, a painstakingly no-frills Korean “driver’s restaurant,” in the Lower East Side, from the team behind the NoHo restaurant C as in Charlie.

Like the restaurants on which it’s modelled, Kisa offers baekban set meals, featuring a centerpiece entrée—your choice of bulgogi, spicy pork, spicy squid, or a vegetarian option—rounded out with rice, soup, and an array of banchan.

The illusion is so straight-faced, so documentary, that an unknowing diner, wandering past, could sit down for a meal and have no idea that they were on a stage set and not in some off-radar, hole-in-the-wall discovery. I kept looking around for some kind of cool-kid tell: a secret list of high-end Champagnes, or a hidden door to a V.I.P.-only basement bar. This conceit could easily have landed wrong, slipping perhaps into a distasteful sort of blue-collar cosplay.

Lower East Side

 

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