Ralph Rucci doesn’t need Ryan Murphy to give him an education on the swans. Having worked for Halston during the ladies’ heyday, Rucci is well-versed in the disciplined elegance they favored, as is evidenced in a matching coat and dress in a black-and-white matelassé in his new couture collection. What Rucci has in common with his past mentor is a belief in an unencumbered silhouette, but this doesn’t make him a minimalist.
The linear effect of tucking on that shirtdress is replicated elsewhere in the horizontally placed rows of grosgrain ribbon tied at the side of a tulle dress; lacking stretch these appear a bit stiff. More convincing is the designer’s use of fluid aprons in silk, velvet, beads, or pearls to wear slim pants. Reviving a technique he first used in 2004, Rucci has made an ivory coat of double-face wool with mitred open-work cut-outs.
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