The breaking news of this story is that, in the past 18 months, the boys have finally grown up and are launching a brand-new, casual dress-for-daily-living line named Proenza Schouler White Label. After a two-season sojourn staging their shows during haute couture week in Paris, they returned home last year.
After all, it isn’t only Hernandez and McCollough who have grown up—the entire friends section has as well. “We started our company at age 22,” Hernandez says. “So the heels were higher, the dress proportions were a little shorter. We were all going out more. A lot of us were single. The look was younger because we were younger. Now most women we know are deep into their careers. Many of them have children. They’re more practical. Their needs have changed.”Enter White Label.
Hernandez and McCollough took nine months to dream up the first two collections for White Label. Rather than visiting Chelsea galleries or going on far-flung voyages for ideas, they spent a lot of time talking to women, many of them right in their SoHo office. The designers listened as these women described the clothes they wanted to wear, the ones missing not only from their closets but also from other retailers. “That’s why White Label is much more accessible,” McCollough says.
Perhaps what’s most rewarding about the new venture is that it allows Hernandez and McCollough to revisit all their years of radical experimentation. They can dig through their archive and bring back a favorite coat shape, a clever skirt cut, or an exaggerated collar. Casual clothes have a longer shelf life—and now their tried-and-true sartorial breakthroughs do too. “Proenza Schouler is a proposition,” Hernandez says, summing things up. “White Label is a conversation.
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