soundtrack at their autumn/winter 2020 show. Us too, is all we could think, crammed into large sweaters and down jackets while a particularly “HOT” and creative season rages in New York among all the global doom and gloom. This season, Jack and Lazaro took a decidedly, ahem, cunty turn, finding glamour in high fashion, cutaways, and 80s silhouettes — a follow on from the last few collections, but decidedly more extra.
From the first look, we were in more revealing territory, even if it was just an exposed shoulder. Oversize outerwear was shrugged off in a believable way that evoked how women in New York try to grapple with their coats when not on the frigid streets, accentuated by big buttons and skinny, thigh high boots . Leather dresses and silk, printed shirts had a touch of Gianni Versace about them, a wilder moment amidst the soft shapes and overspilling volumes.
The overall vibe was business as usual, if business is the cocktail season during nuclear winter. The designer’s fascination with pushing design forward is well-suited to the current uncertain mood — a glimmering rebuke to the nostalgia widely found elsewhere. Whatever the future, we’ll surely need clothes. Let them be Proenza Schouler.
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