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If you don’t count last year, I’ve always hosted Thanksgiving at my place in the West Village. It’s one of my most favorite holidays. I love renting long tables and arranging flowers, squeezing 25 people into my apartment, and cooking everything from scratch. It’s very come one, come all. That’s just how it was in my family, growing up in San Francisco. We’d have anyone who was free over: assorted aunties and uncles, a few neighbors, oftentimes a family friend’s son or daughter in the states for college. I’m Chinese American, so our Thanksgiving menu was always a mash-up of those cultures. We had the turkey, the sweet potatoes with marshmallows on top, and then steamed gai lai or bok choy and my grandmother’s no mai fan—sticky rice studded with lap cheong.
I’m making char siu but rolling it up with shiitake duxelles and turning it into Wellington. I’m indulging in the vegetables, with a sweet potato tian speckled with five-spice, roasted brussels sprouts tossed in a flavor bomb of gochujang and brown butter, and a super crunchy Asian pear and shaved cauliflower salad. The no mai fan is a must, and to finish I’ve got a bread pudding with a milk-tea-sweetened custard as a nod to my family’s Hong Kong history.
No matter how topsy-turvy the world can feel in these times, this is one Thanksgiving menu that makes me smile.
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