Speaking down the landline from London, Sir Paul Smith said with relish that he hopes to return to his house near Lucca, Tuscany, for the first time since you-know-what sometime in the next few weeks. One fly in the ointment, however, is that Italy has quite reasonably responded to the rocketing numbers of Delta variant infections in Great Britain by imposing a five-day quarantine on incomers .
Judging from this collection, which was significantly inspired by Smith’s much-missed Tuscan sanctuary, spending five days banged up in his abode would be a travail easily borne. Inspired by the outdoor vistas and colors of Tuscany, but not designed exclusively to be worn outdoors , it was more a landscape of garments.
The color palette progressed from the lemony yellow of morning sunshine through the ochre, terracotta red of Tuscan brickwork, into the sky blue of an endless afternoon and then—via violently sunset magnolia-to-pink—an eventual inky black. Other holiday references included the sailing stitch used to fashion Look 31’s blue parka ; those cycling jerseys ; and a white and slubby linen/cotton fisherman’s jacket near the top.
Sir Paul said that despite the usual reports of its imminent demise, his suiting business remains brisk— “it’s all the weddings!”—and here the tailoring was tolerantly unstructured, one-and-a-half-breasted and especially lovely in solar flare orange. Less eye-catching but as bracing to wear was the high lapeled cocktail of safari and lounge suit in Look 15.
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