The first time I tasted spanakopita, I was 10 years old and eating at a buffet lined with trays of leathery mystery meats, swamped in gloppy, gray-brown sauces. I remember finally coming upon one dish that looked different, in a good way. The top, not yet cracked, was a sheet of flaky golden pastry, stretched atop what appeared to be a fresh-from-the-oven pot pie. I smiled as the server pressed a big spoon down into it, the pastry sheets softly crinkling as they shattered and separated.
Spanakopita is typically made in a rectangular baking dish with a filling of spinach, feta cheese, scallions or onions, eggs, and dill, covered with several layered sheets of butter- or oil-brushed phyllo dough. This riff, however, is cooked entirely in a cast iron skillet, with a whole lot less mess and fuss. It merges the Greek classic with elements of chicken pot pie, delivering a creamier, heartier, dinner-worthy recipe.
Next, I pan-fry chunks of chicken in butter until the outer edges turn golden. The browning of the milk solids in the butter speeds up browning on the chicken, and the less time it takes to brown the exterior of the chicken, the juicier the meat will remain on the inside. I set the chicken aside, then turn to the sauce.
Feta doesn't have the melting properties of other cheeses, but when it's combined with the liquids in the sauce, the extra moisture is enough to break down the cheese and distribute it throughout. The flour from the roux, meanwhile, helps emulsify the mixture, so that you get a tangy feta- and garlic-flavored sauce that won't separate, even after you add the chicken back along with the moist spinach.
I've made this a bunch. Love it.
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