On Lake Titicaca in Peru, villagers want to draw tourists—but on their own terms

An Andean restaurant where the meal is practically performance art; a humbler eatery in the Sacred Valley with earth-oven cooking. Both are breathtaking.

A boat made of reeds lasts nine months, he explained, but a boat made with water bottles will float for two years.In early afternoon the water taxi pulled up to the concrete pier at Luquina Chico. A string of fishing boats, oars still in oarlocks, floated listlessly in the reeds. The peace and quiet of Luquina, well outside the congestion of Lima, Cuzco and Puno, was unmatched. After our first night, we felt the pulse of a community whose habits and practices had seemingly never changed.

Antonio Jullahui and a young girl demonstrate ply the waters of Lake Titicaca in a traditional reed boat made ofThe greatest threat to this practice, Friscancho said, are online booking services such as Expedia and Airbnb. They pit neighbor against neighbor, promoting competition inside a communal system, he said.

The students, standing alongside the men and women of Luquina, organized into small groups. Some took up wheelbarrow duty. Others dug. Some hauled aggregate from the shoreline to the cement mixer. Others bent and cut rebar for columns and foundation.We grew winded from our exertions; Lake Titicaca lies at 12,500 feet. At noon we took a break for bananas, bread, baloney and cheese.

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