Nothing smells better on the grill than kalbi: Make it for your Labor Day cookout

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This L.A. kalbi recipe is an easy take on the classic with thin slices of beef short ribs cut across the bones, marinated in a garlicky sweet soy sauce and grilled until smoky and charred.

The PTA members who cooked the kalbi came from families with ties to Hawaii, Japan, China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Korea, Mexico and other parts of the world. Some had just arrived in this country; others were four generations in. Most of us were the first in our families born in California.There was a primal comfort in the sweet scent of kalbi, a mix of caramel apple and steak, a smoky mingling of exactly what we and our parents dreamed of.

Whether or not we were in the same grades or spoke the same languages, we loved the dish as a community. Every year, old friends and new cooked together in the open air, sharing a meal and the comfort in it. At the end of our annual school cookouts, we packed up boxes of leftovers to enjoy the next day or to give to anyone who couldn’t make it. It wasn’t quite the same as eating it fresh, crowded together at picnic tables, but those boxes still delivered deliciousness.

 

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