has reviewed about 300 albums. Yet, hundreds—if not thousands—of albums have slipped through the cracks. This December, we’re delighted to launch a new series called, in which our core team of critics reviews some of their favorite records we may have missed the first time around, looking back at some of the best overlooked releases of 2019.
But Giddens’ mission statement can also be read as a reflection on the blurry-edged genre that’s come to be known as “folk,” “roots” or “Americana” music in recent years. These signifiers should, in theory, be capacious and inclusive; technically speaking, they refer to little more than the presence of acoustic stringed instruments in a piece of music and some aesthetic or thematic connection to America’s past.
At the center of Our Native Daughters’ project lies the banjo—an instrument, Giddens explains, whose origins lie in West Africa but whose place in American culture has been jostled and thieved by the slave trade, the popularity of blackface minstrelsy in the 19th century and the Mumford-ification of the instrument into a tool that’s often associated with bearded dudes making foot-stomping, easy-listening music on festival stages.
. Each member of Our Native Daughters brings distinctive ideas and sounds to the project while generously ceding space to one another when appropriate. The album stands on its own not just because of Giddens’ vision and star power, but equally because of Kiah’s forthright songwriting and attention-grabbing contralto, McCalla’s explorations of Afro-Caribbean rhythms and Russell’s remarkably personal narratives about the trauma that she and her ancestors have survived.
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Our Best Philly Cheesesteak Recipe on Food52What makes a good cheesesteak great? To answer this, I looked to two of Philadelpia’s most respected cheesesteak establishments: Pat’s King of Steaks and John’s Roast Pork. Their sandwiches taught me how a cheesesteak is all about the components—after all, there are so few: savory beef, gooey cheese, vegetables if you want them (I want them), and a crusty-fluffy hoagie. This month, our test kitchen rolled up its sleeves and tested extensively to create our ultimate version of this classic. The first question we asked ourselves: Which cut of meat to use? Most cooks decide between sirloin and ribeye. Sirloin is slightly leaner, and a touch more cost-effective. Meanwhile, ribeye has more fat-marbling, resulting in a richer (and, if you ask me, better) flavor. With taste leading the way, we landed on ribeye, but sirloin or even thinly sliced flank steak would be perfectly acceptable. Next, we turned to slicing. For a cheesesteak, thin is preferable to thick. In order to cut the meat as thinly as possible, freeze it for an hour or two—this makes it much easier to work with. Now we had to sort out the cheese. The classic choices are provolone, American cheese, and Cheez Whiz. Some might argue that only one of those is “real” cheese, which is true. But rather than explore an esoteric choice like Gruyere, we wanted to honor the classics. The winners? Both provolone and Whiz. The provolone melts over the meat like a blanket, while the Whiz coats the bread (Whiz is to a cheesesteak as mayo is to a BLT). If you’re dubious about using Cheez Whiz, you can skip it, but it truly does add an extra level of savoriness. Another piece of the puzzle was deciding which veggies to include. Our options: caramelized onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, or hot peppers. It was tempting to include all of these on our cheesesteak, but we found that too many veggies overshadowed the meat. We wanted this component to enhance the savory goodness of meat and cheese, without overstepping. In the en
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