Newsletter: Newer restaurants we hated to leave off the 101

Baroo Canteen

, the resurrection of game-changing Baroo. Kwang Uh is one of L.A.’s most original culinary voices to emerge in the last five years. Why isn’t the restaurant on the list, then? Uh runs awith his wife, Mina Park, in East Hollywood’s Union Swap Meet; the building, already emptying out, is scheduled for demolition sometime in early 2020. Like many food obsessives, I await eating Uh’s fermentation-focused cuisine in more permanent digs soon.

Anonymity is an endless topic around restaurant criticism. Plenty of colleagues don’t bother with the pretense any longer, though I think most of them are still relieved when they visit a restaurant without being identified — when they’re just another diner having, hopefully, the same general experience as the other diners around them. I deeply prefer not being spotted. When I am, I see the staff become stressed, and that’s of no benefit to anyone.

But also? This is my career, and a profession that I love, so I move forward with the meal by being as present as possible. Yes, a kitchen crew can worry over dishes with extra care, but recipes don’t magically change. Rarely do I leave sensing my food radically tasted better because the chef knew a critic was in the house.

Service tends to change, for better and for worse, and so in places where I’ve been busted I often don’t write much about that particular aspect; it depends. I’m thinking of one restaurant in Row DTLA where the rhythm ofmeal was idyllic, while the pace of dinner at the table next to me was glacial. Those customers noticed. No one feels good in that situation.It’s funny. I studied singing and acting in college. I wanted to be a performer.

Best food is still of Mom ..

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