This was, of course, one of Gold’s defining endeavors; he wrote the first “99 Essential L.A. Restaurants” guide for LA Weekly in 2005 and reconceived the list when he returned to the Times in 2012, tipping the number to the other side of 100 and ranking them. In a meeting this April, when Escárcega and I were questioning the inclusion of some longtime standard-bearers,
said, “This wasn’t just a list of the top places to eat. This was Jonathan’s worldview of Los Angeles.”, but it was a vital reminder to balance honoring a lineage with starting from scratch for the sake of making one’s own mark. There’s a trope that national and international food writers love to use in introductions to these types of packages: “I spent xx weeks on the road eating xx meals, traveling xx miles to xx cities.” The publication wants to acknowledge their findings were an investment, not armchair research. In Los Angeles, we could easily rattle off those kinds of numbers and you would all; for many of us, the rough-cut movies of our lives could play endless B-roll of idling in traffic.
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