Near the end of a week spent delving into Manhattan's upwelling of modern Korean fine dining restaurants last fall, I watched a server at Oiji Mi light a blowtorch tableside and turn it toward a platter of Wagyu bavette steak carved into carpaccio rounds. A snug beige cloth was wrapped around the butane cylinder to hide any warning labels. It brought to mind a soft spa tunic.
In the New York Times last month, Priya Krishna wrote about Hand Hospitality, run by a pair of restaurateurs who prefer to keep a low profile but operate 21 booming Korean restaurants in New York. Their businesses span from the highest gastronomic temples to quick-service soup counters. L.A. has Wonsuk “John” Kang, a former stockbroker turned food-industry pro who owns a half-dozen informal restaurants in Koreatown that mostly specialize in variations on Korean drinking foods.
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