critic Ruth Reichl. Greene was a critic who did not hold back, lacing her missives with prose that ranged from straightforwardly enthusiastic to overtly sensuous, sensual, and sometimes acerbic.
Greene wasn’t just an analyst of acid balance and collapsed souffles. She was an astute journalist who relished contemplating the cultural pulse of our ever-changing city from inside a brasserie, a sushi bar, or a restaurant over 100 stories up. She conveyed her musings via an effervescent, easy-to-digest style of prose that felt appropriate for an 8:30 a.m. read at Balthazar, accompanied by a tall glass of Champagne.
Waiting for a guest who’s late, our dinner stretches toward midnight, and we watch the congregation evolve. ‘It’s become Las Vegas night at the bar,’ one of my friends reports, as the crowd shifts. Skirts get shorter, and the faces hairier. He is particularly fixated on a , finding it unbearably erotic when she puts on glasses to read the menu. — From “Velvet Revolution,”
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