New Documentary Explores the Dangerous World of Sea Urchin Diving

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'Delicacies are food that aren’t essentially there for nourishment, and come with all sorts of other interesting points—they’re dangerous to get, or odd-looking, or you eat a weird part of whatever animal it is.”

Director Wise says regarding the genesis of the movie, “To me, the idea of a delicacy was a great lens to use to speak about all the strange behaviors humans have in terms of eating food. Delicacies are food that aren’t essentially there for nourishment, and come with all sorts of other interesting points—they’re dangerous to get, or odd-looking, or you eat a weird part of whatever animal it is.”As the writer Jonathan Swift said back in the 1700s, “He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.

Cogley, who has currently shifted Aubergine’s elegant cuisine to a more homestyle takeout focus, says, “The first time I had urchin, it was actually a dish that was pivotal in my decision to become a chef. It was in 1999 at Guy Savoy in Paris, and I had a dish of sea urchin, oysters, borage, and what they called an ‘emulsion of sea water.’ It was extraordinary, and a real changing point for me. My parents weren’t chefs or home cooks or anything.

Risks like that, which urchin divers face daily, are part of what makes the film so gripping, especially filtered through the personalities of the divers themselves. “Making this was like stepping back in time in more ways than one,” Wise says. “The urchin divers are these grumpy, swearing-all-the-time, wonderful old fishermen, full of street smarts. Or ocean smarts, I guess.

 

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