Myth Testing: The Secrets of the Best Matzo Balls

Photographs: Daniel Gritzer unless otherwise notedHow often have I heard this question? How often have I asked it? Years ago my sister took on the mantle of family matzo ball-maker, and the secrets of her light and fluffy ones were unknown to me. I mean, I knew about the most common tricks—baking powder, seltzer, guilt-inducing self-sacrifice—but having never tried them out myself, I didn't have a clue which would truly make a difference.

This is an easy one: You have to rest your matzo-ball mixture before cooking. Just look at the difference between the mixture when it's fresh:This is a simple issue of hydration. Specifically, the matzo meal needs time to absorb the liquid. It's almost impossible to form balls when it's still fresh, and even if you do, they won't hold together in the water.

I tried it out, quadrupling the basic ratio to a full cup of matzo meal, four eggs, and 1/4 cup each fat and liquid . Of the four eggs, I separated out two whites and beat them until stiff, ultimately folding those beaten whites into the remaining ingredients. That said, if schmaltz is going to be the deciding factor between making matzo balls and not, go ahead and skip it. The vegetable oil ones may not be quite as good, but they're still plenty delicious.*

This roughly 1-inch uncooked matzo ball will swell to nearly twice its size once cooked, absorbing all the liquid it's been cooked in. If it's water, the matzo ball will taste...watery.If there's one hard-and-fast rule I'll stand by for good matzo balls, it's that they need to be cooked in chicken broth. The richer and more flavorful that broth is, the better—.

Just save us from broth that's too greasy.

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