Marine Serre’s Moon Bodysuit Gets a Nostalgic Makeover for Spring 2021

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How Marine Serre's spring 2021 collection paid homage to Jean Paul Gaultier's fall 1995 Cyber bodysuit.

There was no question that Marine Serre’s moon-print stretch tops, leggings, and bodysuits were the garments of the summer. They were already ultra-popular before Beyoncé wore a brown moon-print bodysuit alongside dancers inin the 48 hours after the visual album’s debut. In the weeks immediately following, everyone seemed to turn up in Marine’s moon: celebrities, influencers—even dogs.

, Serre iterated on the style, transforming it into graphic checkerboards and a circular moon-dot pattern the brand calls “moonfish.”Appearing in a sequence of the film where the main character, portrayed by Juliet Marie, enters into a dreamlike trance, the blue-on-blue graphic will remind the fashion-obsessed of another iconic bodysuit: Jean Paul Gaultier’s cyber one-piece from

. JPG’s dotted catsuits, whose varying-size dots were inspired by the Op Art painter Victor Vasarely, were instant hits on the runway. “I wanted to make a body, the shape of a body, in the Vasarely opticalwear,” Gaultier toldrevisited these biomorphic dots, celebrities had caught on though. Cardi B, Jorja Smith, Charli XCX, and others had been testing out the curve-accentuating material.

For Serre to obliquely reference Parisian fashion’s enfant terrible makes sense—even if her new print takes its name from aquatic life. Gaultier is like the godfather of contemporary Paris fashion: Martin Margiela and Nicolas Ghesquière both worked in his atelier, and Simon Porte Jacquemus, Olivier Rousteing, and many other French designers have paid him homage.

 

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