Makan Chef Opens a Southeast Asian-Style Chicken Takeout in Columbia Heights

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Spicebird dishes up spice-rubbed chicken, chili noodles, and fried rice.

chef James Wozniuk. It’s open for dinner service in Columbia Heights, with daytime weekend hours starting Saturday, February 4.

Ghost kitchens were having a big moment mid-pandemic, but many vanished with the return of in-person dining. Though Makan and adjoining Malaysian-American sports bardraw a crowd, Wozniuk says he wants to offer something beyond an expensive, full-service meal. “We wanted to put something good together that’s fast, easy, you get a lot of big flavors, but it’s approachable,” he says.Wozniuk, who spent six years atand its sister restaurants before going solo, was inspired by his extensive travels in Southeast Asia for the menu.

A brined and spice-rubbed chicken is technically the star of the show, coated in 15 spices like coriander, cinnamon, cumin, and turmeric. But it’s the sweet-sour-spicy “KL”—for Kuala Lumpur—dipping sauce that Wozniuk spent years trying to perfect after sampling a similar brew from Malaysian street vendors. The sauce—a blend of vinegar, garlic, shallot, citrus, and chilies—accompanies every bird, as do a choice of two sides.

 

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