Almost 20 years ago, Lécallion made the bold decision to take the storied Champagne house—known for Cristal, its flagship cuvée—, adopting a set of farming principles that were developed in the 1920s. The practice is guided by lunar cycles and a holistic philosophy. Its devotees claim biodynamic farming conserves and energizes the soil and produces healthier plants. “We started our first trials in 2000,” says Lécaillon.
But Roederer isn’t the only major player utilizing biodynamic practices to make “haute couture Champagne.” Leclerc Briant in Épernay, France, has been preaching biodynamics since the 1950s. But it was the son of Bertrand Leclerc, the fifth generation of Lecrecs, who went through the laborious process of certification in the 1980s. The entire vineyard is certified as organic, biodynamic, and vegan, meaning the wine isn’t processed with fining agents like casein , gelatin, or egg whites.
and is moving toward being completely organic. “The energy and quality of natural and biodynamic wine and small production wine are undeniable,” adds Johannesen. “It’s way more balanced, delicious, and energetic. Plus, you aren’t ingesting rogue shit into your body.” Johannesen feels as if natural and biodynamic wine is becoming more widespread, yet it’s still very misunderstood.
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